McCalls 7358 Part II

· The Muslin Saga ·

September 29, 2017 0 Comments

Day 2 working on the muslin to get the blouse looking just the way I want it. First, here’s a few things I did not like about the top.

1. The yokes. The pattern shows them to be cut on the crosswise grain. First time I’ve ever seen that, I thought accepted practice was yokes were cut on the bias. But I tried just to see what I was missing and yeah…nope. The fabric fought against each other.


2. The fullness in this pattern is directed towards the shoulder into gathers where the front of the top meets the front yoke. On a young girl, maybe..on a mature woman…yeah…no.

On the back, the neck rode up too high. I didn’t take a picture of it because the 1st muslin I make is always thrown together just to see where everything falls and get a general overall picture of the pattern. 

3. The bottom of the pattern back is boringly straight. I’ve changed that to a shirt tail finish and I really like it. I had to change the sides to agree with that but it was nothing. I’ll make sure to post a picture of it special when its done.

Today, I traced a new copy of the pattern with the changes. I put the yokes on the bias (much better) and paid more attention to making sure the side seams lined up and measured the same as well as the neck line front and back. I also made changes to the front neck line so it would fall more to my taste. However, in the 2nd muslin, it was a bit too shallow and deep. Meh. I knew it was a guesstimate when I drew it in, I knew it would have to be tweaked for finality but one needs a baseline. Just from today, I extended it out half an inch and changed it on the pattern. It changes the neckline as well, but before I cut another muslin out I’m going to put it to bed for the night and go at it again in the morning when I’m fresh. I’ve been adding/subtracting, cutting, measuring and sewing up all day…it’s enough for now.

The front side seam needs to be moved in >half an inch or so but that’s something else I want to look at more tomorrow with new eyes. I’m going to go ahead and set the sleeves and then make sure that I’ve got everything where its supposed to be. The center fronts of both sides cross over one another (I’m changing that) and I want to make sure I’ve got the crossover in the right place.

I’m going to change the crossover so that only the right side crosses over the left. I’m going to draft the left side so it is a regular center front and sew in small buttons to secure it in place to buttonholes on the right front facing. That’s my idea, I’ll see if it works and post pics.

The family’s good. I sold stocks Monday to help my daughter get into her first house. The money showed up in the checking account today, very exciting. She & her family are getting closer.

The son is good. Just finishing up with school to begin his career in the exciting world of heavy equipment Diesel mechanics. 

Tomorrow starts the weekend, so the husband & I will be dating like teenagers. You know, like one does. As per usual.

I’m crazy I love with this cover of November Rain by Steven N Seagulls. It’s my ear worm now and I’m picking it out on the piano. This song works as bluegrass. This band is interesting as hell. I love ’em!

Jypsea Rose