Since I put McCalls 7358 aside, I’ve been working on my own draft of a yoke shirt and just happy as all get out at how it’s turning out. I drafted this pattern last year and made it up in a beautiful red/black/white plaid Pendleton flannel. After the disappointment of 7358 which looks more and more like hospital scrubs every time I look at it, I needed this win. First, the Pendleton Flannel, whose plaid lines totes line up perfectly, by the way:
And now, the Blue Yoke version, yoke construction to stand up collar/collar band in contrasting fabrics, followed by Lessons Learned So Far.
*click thumbnails to embiggen*
I used quilting fabric for this. One, because I absolutely love the fabrics and how they work together. Second, this is a long sleeve shirt, ergo, winter time and the heavier cotton will be warmer.
I have one lesson that I’m expecting to learn here about using the quilting cotton, and that’s about the use of interfacing. I debated for a day about interfacing the yoke and contrasting button band and in the end went with it because I didn’t know how it would turn out and still wouldn’t know if I hadn’t. Now I know (or will know soon enough). Interfacing the already heavier cotton may very well be a mistake. The yoke and button bands are *heavy*. As in HEAVY. However, my reasoning was this, if I hadn’t interfaced them, then there wouldn’t be enough structure for buttons and button holes. Maybe not interface yoke but do the button band? Vice Versa?
If it turns out that I should not have interfaced them…and to be honest, I *still* do not know if it was a mistake or not…it would have been a bigger mistake to sew up a shirt that could *not* take buttons/holes. I’ll have to see how this turns out after it’s laundered. ….And over time….
I made up a summer dress in a quilting cotton from a pattern I copied from a little blue denim number I bought from The Gap. The little dress ended up too short to be a dress but too long to be a tunic top. I ended up chopping off about 7-8” from the bottom to turn it more into a tunic top and it has become my favorite summer top to go with my jeans shorts. But still, after many, many washings, it’s still quite a heavy cotton top. Not that I mind that, I quite like that about the top. So I don’t expect this shirt to go soft anytime soon. If it turns out interfacing it was a mistake…well, I will know not to do it in future. I already know that too much structure in a button band is a really bad thing; long story, let’s just leave it there and never speak of it again!!
That’s that. Live and learn, I say, Live and Learn.
If you squint your eyes here, you can see pockets. The under flap has the contrasting fabric
Lessons? Yeah, tailor chalk the topstitching lines, Jypsea!! Tailor. Chalk. The. Topstitching. Lines. (How many times do I have to….!?!?!)
I’m not so worried about it here, it will “quilt out” as we say. And by “we” I mean “me”. As I say. And I wonder if I shouldn’t have created two topstitching lines in the pocket flap. Meh. Next time.
Now I’m off to find a YouTube video on sleeve cuffs. There’s a trick to the button closure on the cuffs and I don’t remember it right off. I’ll add the sleeves today and then start the button holes…which I am embroidering by hand, every single one.
I *LOVE* hand stitching. So zen for me. One of my favorite ways to pass the time. I’ll end up making a top that has hand embroidery on it, you watch and see.
Just an aside, the contrasting fabric…I watch period era movies, especially from Victorian times (my faves!) and the costumes are always in the most beautiful contrasting fabrics. I am just mesmerized by them! I rewind just to get a good look at the costumes! See “The Winslow Boy”, or “The Forsythe Saga” for examples. The trim!! I’m actually watching the Forsythe Saga and I totally need a cream/black trim something or other that’s got next after the jeans to go with the above top!!