My My My My Bernina~

August 18, 2018 0 Comments

Happy sigh.

Been in my sewing room. Do you know how if you hear a favorite song from your past…and it just puts you in a place? Elvin Bishop’s “Fooled Around And Fell In Love” does it for me….among others. That’s what being in my sewing room does for me. I just go to a place of zen.

So, right. On with it.

The project:


StyleArc Italia Shirt Dress

I actually started this one earlier this year when the house was having all the work done. I said to myself,  “Jyps”, I said, “just move the sewing machines into the bedroom and that’s how I’ll stay busy while the house is under construction.” I traced the pattern onto pattern paper, did a little something-something comparing it to my sloper, made a few preliminary alterations, but I’ll be go to Hades if I can remember now what it was that I did then. Way too much has gone on in between. Unfortunately, after I did what I can’t remember, there it sat for 3 mos or more. Because the house, the new garden, the two new puppies~one pup, Possum, attacked by the pit bull mix, the son graduating and moving 4 hours away, the husband retiring and coming home…there was something every day that required I jump thru flaming hoops, mostly for the amusement of others but whatevs. If that’s what we’re doing, I said, I’ll jump thru the hoops.

By the time I got back to it, I couldn’t remember what I did or where I left off. I considered starting over again from scratch but where’s the fun in that? I cut out a muslin from what I had, stitched it together and began problem solving on some pretty obvious areas. I went back to the pattern, made some corrections and cut/sewed another muslin. I wasn’t hoping for much, I thought I’d be able to see other areas that needed a fix but the second muslin wasn’t all that bad, in reality. I did a few refinements, I moved the bust dart up 1/2”, I moved the front darts (the ones under the pockets) down 1 3/4” and over toward the center by 1/2” as well, then traced a new clean pattern.

Heeeeey!! Wait a gosh darn minute…!! What the….??? Look at that pic of them side by side…why is the new one so much larger than the old one?  I’ll have to check it out before I go to bed or I’ll never get to sleep tonight. What did I do? Off the top of my head, what I think I did was trace the old pattern onto a clean sheet of paper and then add a seam allowance to the outside of the existing seam allowance. Meh. Easy fix. There was something somewhere where I made the alteration to move the bust dart up the pattern 1/2” that I was supposed to add back in some seam allowance. Looks like I did it all over. Ok. I’ll fix it. Either that or I’ll put the bust dart back! Ha!

Addendum: before padding off to bed, I went into the sewing room to look at the size diff. Nope. Must be some exotic gremlin in the iPad camera or an angle thing. They are both the exact same size. Weird, no?

Moving right along~

I traced off a clean copy of the back, trued up the side seams to the front and  corrected the waist/hip lines after I had lengthened the back.

Quick check to make sure waist and hip lines match up front and back, measuring down from the bottom of the armscye.

Match up the gussets.

And I think we’re good to go on the third muslin. Not that that’s that. I have to figure out the front center button band and the stand up collar for this on a muslin before I go onto fashion fabric. It won’t be so hard. I drafted a button up/stand up collar shirt pattern a couple of years ago and that all worked out. I’ll use the same method here. This will be fine.

Tomorrow is a new day. So good to be back in there. I fool around and fall in love back there. Is one of my happy places.


Jyps 🦋

August 15, 2018
August 24, 2018

Jypsea Rose